Saturday, December 26, 2009

Winding Down, Sending, Frustration, Determination and some Yaarrr!!!

Kaiya was on last time; Mike McClure had just left after a pretty good couple of days after some frustrating ones not having enough time to send on tours, bad weather etc... Brian Veseth joined us on the 13th, bringing his energy from the snowy wet and cold depths of home in Moscow to crush here in Hueco.

Brian had an amazing first day, sending a lot of problems in the 4-6 range and finding himself a project for the trip in the Martini Roof. Here is a shot of him on Baby Martini, an 18 move V6 that he ended up coming agonizingly close on his last day here in a complete blizzard and rainstorm.

Brian and Kaiya both ended up sending Chris' Arete, a really good problem right near Free Willy that Kaiya actually couldn't do the first move on last year and sent on her 4th go of the second session of the trip. Brian also dispatched the climb quickly on the second day. Here they are shortly before they both sent doing their best Zoolander impressions...

And here is Kaiya sticking the big move early in the problem.

Earlier that same day, we had gone to Short Order Cook, a really good problem that is just above the ranch house where you watch the video. Couple of tension moves lead to a bicycle and then you throw up to a small hueco with a very sharp edge to it, keeping the toe hook engaged to stop your swing. Brian demonstrating how to overshoot the hold with his abnormally long hand...

Darryl here on Diaphanous Sea shortly before he injured his wrist/hand. He is home in LA for a few more days before he returns with Claire to tear up the mountain with her and his 7 functional fingers. Hopefully with time to recuperate and heal (and build some lats) Darryl will be back to crimping slopers in no time at all.

A bunch more photos from random days that we went on tours to East Mountain and Spur from Full Throttle, Better Eat your Wheaties, Hector, Diabolique and others that Kaiya and I managed to shoot in between frantic attempts to send something hard before we leave...

We have 2 days of climbing left here in Hueco, and that also means that we have that many days left living in the Foosa on "the road". We have made tons of new climbing friends, met up with some old ones that we knew from the past and overall have had an amazing time.

I have one thing I want to send before we leave and Kaiya has two. I think she will be more successful than me but time will tell. Diabolique for me, Big Iron on His Hip and King Cobra for her...three days from now and hopefully no chalkbag kicking, shoe throwing or Punter Family McClure/Bockino (ing) from either of us and the best 2 days of the trip will be complete.

Stay tuned.