Monday, January 26, 2009


These days, as the temps plummet into the negative ranges at night, the idea of climbing outside is entertained through watching videos on climbidaho and youtube, while in reality I am trapped in a gym. Two I guess, I just got a membership to the one in Pullman WA, so I got nothin to bitch about. Having nothing in the immediate future to look forward makes it hard to psyche yourself up to do those last sets of campus touches, pull ups, core workouts, front levers, or whatever. In the case of Jeff S(ucks) I suppose it would be that last 12 oz. curl of a bottle of Dead Guy Ale. Generally the person who is always psyched, I am having some days where it is just easier to climb a little bit, fuck around on some stuff that I was running laps on in prep for Hueco, and then lift a little, going home early. That was what I did for the last week. Then yesterday came around. I don't know if it was some weird post road trip lull that I was experiencing, or if I was just STILL recuperating from destroying myself in Hueco, but I finally had a good day and a good workout. Kaiya thinks it might have something to do with the fact that I am sick, but I don't see an M.D. in front of her name, so I say I have been a little sissy.

Training is something that I actually enjoy doing, torturing myself and getting stronger. The feeling that you cannot make moves that were "piss easy" or "not that hard" at the beginning of the session is an awesome one. I have over the last two months gotten on a regular training schedule that includes three days a week of climbing, and two days a week of running, lifting weights, campusing, pullups and other exercises. It was outlined by Mike Doyle and is the best thing I have done for my climbing since I started 9 years ago. I would be very interested to hear what others do for a training schedule and why they do it, resting or no, weights, running. I know one person that is just plain strong so he doesn't need to tell me what he does.

I want to make some quick plugs here: Big props to Josh Vale, who despite his fear of falling off of the lip of boulder problems and the anchors of routes has had a pretty good fall/winter in Bishop Cali. Josh sent Bubba Lobotomy (V12), Toxic Avenger (V9/Vreally really hard), Acid Wash (V10), and last I heard from him was making some pretty good links on the Buttermilker.

I picked up a sponsorship from ProBar over break, really psyched about that fact, I had one bar once and loved 'em, and now I get to eat them all the time and tell people like you guys that they are the best bars ever!!! The two sponsors I have are the best, and it's really nice to be able to tell someone genuinely that the product that you plug is the best, cause it is, not cause you got it for free....hopefully headed to Riggins this coming weekend, and if not, I am heading to Boise to boulder at Swan and Reynolds Creek to get out and do some climbing.


Tammy and Mike said...

ooh, I can't believe you posted that beyonce photo...I did know the camera was there probably and that probably was my best impersonation... I guess I'll look into another career. OH, boy do we have some ammo photos.....coming soon to a facebook post near you!

You must kill it at the PCF! see you in riggins soon.

Mike Bockino said...

I also have plenty of photos that I could bring out of retirement if needsbe....