Saturday, July 31, 2010
Went back up to the Sawtooths again this last weekend with Jeff Smith. This time we were joined by Jamey Sproull, owner of Asana Climbing, his girlfriend Venessa and two of his employees and fellow climbers Adam Healy and Morty ??????? (Sorry man I still don't know your last name). Adam had a pretty rough day, forgetting all his food in the car and only having 3 PBR's to sustain him! He still had a decent day, should have sent the Prow but was thwarted by a wicked calf cramp. He managed to send Milk Roof Left with the new beta that I found. Here is Adam on the first of the hard compression moves on the Prow.
Jeff's project to the right of the Prow, a super thin and techy dihedral climb broke and is now harder. Shame too, the movement was very high quality and now is less than stellar and much harder. Jamey cleaned off a pretty cool little roof climb that had a super highball choss fest topout, drop off jug obvious here. Adam sent a new problem, a short little arete to the left of the Prow on the Warmup Boulder. He called it Cramp Corner, it starts on a low left undercling and right hand pinch and grovels up the arete.
I sent two new lines, one that ended up being a stand start to a problem that really doesn't go due to dabbage and gayness. I called it One Up, cause we started going one hold up every time we couldn't fit in the little cave. I also sent a line to the right of the "Big Blunt Arete" project, a compression line that tops out on some TINY crimpers. 100 Degree Razor (photo above) was a fitting name, the topout crimps stay in the sun all day and in the evening are hot to the touch! Sounds real appealing huh?
I had packed all my flashes, extra lenses and tripods up in the hopes of shooting a bunch of photos on the Prow, but I did manage to get one good one of Adam on his only attempt. Jeff Smith on the proj to the left of 100 Degree Razor and a shot of Adam and Jamey discussing why his leg may have cramped up...
I am headed to the OR show in Salt Lake next week, to meet up with some friends and some business type stuff. Should have some sick new Organic gear for my trip to Rocky Mountain, and a new pad on the way!!! Super psyched for that, the new design is sick! Check back in late next week for some images from OR, and the citizen's comp setting extravaganza at the Front SLC.
Posted by Mike Bockino