Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Sawtooths video

This is the long awaited much promised video from the Grandjean boulders in the Sawtooths. Jeff Smith on Milk Roof Variation V8 and Wild Raspberry V6/7 and myself on the Prow and Crossing the Boundary.

A few words about the climbing: Milk Roof is amazing. Mike McClure put this problem up and I ended up figuring out a different sequence that completely changes the problem/grade. A difference of one move and 3 grades, the version that he authored is a much more powerful and complete line of the roof. Wild Raspberry is essentially two big moves on 1/2 pad flat edges. Mantle a heel hook and grab a good crimp, switch it to a toe and rock up to a good right hand gaston then jump to the lip, or if you are tall enough just reach up and grab it.

The Prow is the best problem I did all summer. Aside from the questionable rock quality (all the holds are solid as of now and will clean up further with more traffic) it is one of the best climbs in the state. Mike McClure plucked the gem of the area with this one. Big moves on good holds with good feet to an all out pogo dyno to a giant sloping jug. Heady yet easy topout at around 20′ makes this boulder the total package that we as climbers look for upon finding new boulders. The last climb in the video marked a milestone for myself. Every move of that problem is hard, foot moves and hand moves alike. The days I would work on it made me realize that I had never done such a physically demanding problem. Ever. I would hike the 51/2 miles out and feel like I had been beaten up. Over the course of 5 days I hiked almost 80 miles to send that problem, the first thing that I have ever done that I would consider V13. The last thing that took me that long was my very first V11, Brass Monkey that I did over 3 years ago in Riggins. Crossing the Boundary is what it is called. The rock quality is bullet granite, the holds are perfect and the climbing is amazing, compression at it finest. Enjoy!

1 comment:

Kerrek Stinson said...

Sick. I had to stalk out your blog to find that video you guys mentioned yesterday. Crossing the Boundary looks so sweet. Props man.